Business History Books » Business Plans » brake flush…
brake flush…
Question:
Ok, I tried Dr. Bob brake flush doohicky. Works great! Except, on the passenger side front brake, I keep getting air bubbles coming out. I pushed tons of fluid and I still get them. Where did I go wrong? How do I go about fixing it? I didn’t dry out the master cylinder and I have a nice tight pressure in the pedal. — | suki | "Hell, if you understand everything I say, | | Tasuki Hirata | you’d be me." – Miles Davis |
Response:
Dr. Bob, Can you e-mail me the parts list and a diagram of the setup so I can bleed my brake system. Thanks Tim ‘94 Sport
Response:
Yes, I think I’d like one as well… cheers, Tadd – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Dr. Bob, > Can you e-mail me the parts list and a diagram of the setup so I can bleed > my brake system. > Thanks > Tim > ‘94 Sport
Response:
All: The terminal where I have usenet has no e-mail capability, for security reasons. If you’d like a set of plans for the bleeder, e-mail me at the address that’s encoded in the "reply to:" field in this message header. The plans include a parts list that can be filled at you local Home Depot store for less than $20, and also requires a master cylinder reservoir cap. The cap I used came from the "Help" parts display at my local Pep Boys store for about $5, but the OEM cap works somewhat better/takes less modification. Add in a couple quarts of brake fluid to your shopping list, and you are on your way. Listers should also be aware that my (and probably your…) local tire store will do a whole system flush and replace on the fluid for $40, so consider what your time and energy are worth before you go out shopping at the home center. For a one-time use, the tire shop service is the way to go. No matter which way you decide to do the service, the important thing is to get it done. Hydraulic problems are almost always associated with water in the fluid and the associated corrosion of the metal parts. A friend in the business suggests that a system that’s changed regularly will NEVER experience a master cylinder, caliper, or slave cylinder failure. The advice applies to clutch systems on manual trans cars too– How many clutch hydraulics have been replaced? Porsche recommends intervals of two years between flushes. The PCA, SCCA, and POC groups require fluid less than six months old for almost all track events, but that’s for competition where the brakes are tested for extended periods. The biggest apparent improvement is in brake pedal feel, with the system higher and harder with the new dry fluid. Those that tow regularly will notice that the second stop is much more predictable. All in all, this is really cheap insurance against a multitude of brake problems. It just won’t cure worn pads or warped rotors… dr bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Yes, I think I’d like one as well… >cheers, >Tadd > Dr. Bob, > Can you e-mail me the parts list and a diagram of the setup so I can bleed > my brake system. > Thanks > Tim > ‘94 Sport
Response:
>>Next time, I’ll hang my bottle on a ladder and see if >that helps. >All you really need to do is hang the bottle from the coil spring just >a little higher than the bleeder screw. I drilled a hole in the >plastic bottle in that cone under the cap so the hose is tight passing >through. A piece of coathanger wire should be plenty to hang it up in >there. Toughest is the rear, where there’s nothing handy to hang it >from on the right side.
I had same problem on my ‘91 last year. sucking air.Thoght it was the hose, tywrapped it no joy. Solved it with a dab of anti-sieze on the bleeder threads. Good Luck… LCM
Response:
Dr. Bob, Can you e-mail me the parts list and a diagram of the setup so I can bleed my brake system. Thanks Frank G
Response:
I think this is everything… From Home Depot: 1 RL FlowMaster Model 14010HD Lawn & Garden Sprayer. ~$10 1 6′ of 1/4 id braided clear high pressure hose ?? 1 hose clamp <$1 1 Campbell Hausfeld 1/4" Hose End – 1/4" NPT ~$3?? 1 1/2" Rondana SAE Washer <$1 From Trak Auto: 1 1/8" Female NPT – 1/4" Male NPT ~$2 Dealer: 1 Ford OEM Master Cylinder Cap ~$9 I skipped the hose splicer part. What I did was to take the hose off the sprayer. Since the clear high pressure hose comes in two layers with a braid in the middle, I carefully cut a small section of the outer layer off so that the tube fits in the sprayer hose fitting. suki — | suki | "Hell, if you understand everything I say, | | Tasuki Hirata | you’d be me." – Miles Davis |
Response:
Bob,
Can you also e-mail the parts list and the procedure. Thanks for all of your help! -**** Posted from RemarQ, http://www.remarq.com/?a ****- Search and Read Usenet Discussions in your Browser – FREE –
Response:
The whole package with instructions, CAD diagram and pictures is available. To get your very own official copy, e-mail me at: <dr dot bobf at worldnet dot att dot net> (do a little decoding…) in the message body. Suki: I liked the disconnect because it lets you disconnect without making any mess from fluid still in the lines. Cost is only about $4 for the two parts. Good trick on the hose connection– I looked at that and the cheap hose splicer, and decided that for the common guy the splicer is easier. Your method has the advantage of freeing up the pump to kill insects and weeds in between brake bleeding sessions, too. Now that all the fluid is swapped in all my road cars, I have another box to find a home for in the garage. 
Thanks for the hints and feedback! dr bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->I think this is everything… >From Home Depot: >1 RL FlowMaster Model 14010HD Lawn & Garden Sprayer. ~$10 >1 6′ of 1/4 id braided clear high pressure hose ?? >1 hose clamp <$1 >1 Campbell Hausfeld 1/4" Hose End – 1/4" NPT ~$3?? >1 1/2" Rondana SAE Washer <$1 >From Trak Auto: >1 1/8" Female NPT – 1/4" Male NPT ~$2 >Dealer: >1 Ford OEM Master Cylinder Cap ~$9 >I skipped the hose splicer part. What I did was to take the hose off >the sprayer. Since the clear high pressure hose comes in two layers >with a braid in the middle, I carefully cut a small section of the >outer layer off so that the tube fits in the sprayer hose fitting. > suki >– >| suki | "Hell, if you understand everything I say, | >| Tasuki Hirata | you’d be me." – Miles Davis |
Response:
>Next time, I’ll hang my bottle on a ladder and see if >that helps.
All you really need to do is hang the bottle from the coil spring just a little higher than the bleeder screw. I drilled a hole in the plastic bottle in that cone under the cap so the hose is tight passing through. A piece of coathanger wire should be plenty to hang it up in there. Toughest is the rear, where there’s nothing handy to hang it from on the right side.
Response:
In the ideal situation, at the wheel, the bleeder hose should run uphill to the bottle, and the end of the hose should be submerged in the fluid in the bottle. If the bottle is lower than the bleeder nipple, the siphon effect of the fluid in the hose can draw air in around the threads on the bleeder screw. This is one of the big reasons I don’t like those little vacuum bleeders that use a miti-vac pump– the draw air through the hose like that, so you can never really tell when all the real air is out of the system. The three feet of fluid in the hose draws about -1.5psi, enough to suck in just a few bubbles. Sounds like you have the air out OK– the proof is in the nice tight pedal. dr bob – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Ok, I tried Dr. Bob brake flush doohicky. Works great! Except, on >the passenger side front brake, I keep getting air bubbles coming out. >I pushed tons of fluid and I still get them. Where did I go wrong? >How do I go about fixing it? I didn’t dry out the master cylinder and >I have a nice tight pressure in the pedal. >– >| suki | "Hell, if you understand everything I say, | >| Tasuki Hirata | you’d be me." – Miles Davis |
Response:
> In the ideal situation, at the wheel, the bleeder hose should run > uphill to the bottle, and the end of the hose should be submerged in > the fluid in the bottle. If the bottle is lower than the bleeder > nipple, the siphon effect of the fluid in the hose can draw air in > around the threads on the bleeder screw. This is one of the big > reasons I don’t like those little vacuum bleeders that use a > miti-vac pump– the draw air through the hose like that, so you can > never really tell when all the real air is out of the system. The > three feet of fluid in the hose draws about -1.5psi, enough to suck > in just a few bubbles. > Sounds like you have the air out OK– the proof is in the nice tight > pedal.
Thanks Dr. Bob! I kinda thought that the bleeder screw was drawing some air in. If I bled the brake really slowly, it tended to produce less air bubbles. I was going to try to fix it, but I guess I won’t worry about it. Next time, I’ll hang my bottle on a ladder and see if that helps. Thanks again, suki — | suki | "Hell, if you understand everything I say, | | Tasuki Hirata | you’d be me." – Miles Davis |